New Construction Walkthrough Checklist: What to Inspect Before You Close

New construction buyers often skip or underestimate the pre-closing walkthrough because the house is brand new. That assumption is expensive. Building inspectors review code compliance; they do not check for the dozens of finish defects, alignment issues, and installation errors that tradespeople leave behind. A builder's punch list is the builder's list — not yours. The walkthrough is your only window to document problems before you own them.

Here is how to approach the new construction walkthrough systematically, what to bring, and what to document in every room.

What the Walkthrough Is — and Is Not

A new construction walkthrough (sometimes called a "blue tape" walkthrough or final orientation) typically happens 5 to 14 days before closing. The builder walks you through the completed home, shows you how systems operate, and identifies items on their punch list.

Your job during this walkthrough is not to be polite. It is to document every defect you observe, in writing, before you sign anything. Items on the punch list must be corrected before closing. Items you miss during the walkthrough become your problem post-closing, because builders typically offer only a one-year warranty on workmanship and much shorter windows for cosmetic items.

Bring blue painter's tape, a phone for photos, and a notebook or digital checklist. Mark every defect with tape on the spot so nothing gets missed during the follow-up.

Even for new construction, hiring an independent inspector for a pre-closing inspection is worth the fee ($300 to $500). Third-party inspectors who specialize in new builds are familiar with common framing shortcuts, improper duct installation, and HVAC commissioning failures that builders do not flag themselves.

Exterior: Start Outside Before You Walk In

Foundation and grading. Soil should slope away from the foundation at a minimum six-inch drop over the first ten feet. Flat or inward-sloping grading is a drainage problem that gets worse as the soil settles after construction.

Driveway and flatwork. Check for control joint placement and any visible cracking. New concrete will shrink-crack — that is normal — but cracks that cross control joints or show displacement are not.

Exterior cladding. Check siding joints, trim corners, and caulk lines. Look for gaps at window and door penetrations, which are water intrusion points. Check that all exterior vents (dryer exhaust, bath fans, range hood) are installed with proper flaps that open and close.

Roof. Walk the perimeter and look at the rake edges and eaves for straight lines. From the ground, check that all penetrations — plumbing vents, flues, exhaust fans — have flashing sealed properly. If you can access a ladder, check that ridge vent is continuous and that no shingles are lifted at the eaves.

Garage. Check the auto-reverse function of the garage door: place a two-by-four flat on the floor in the door path and trigger the close cycle. The door must reverse on contact. This is a code requirement. Test the wall button, the keypads, and all remotes.

Mechanical Systems: Check Every One in Operation

HVAC. Run both heating and cooling modes during the walkthrough, even if the outside temperature does not require them. Verify that airflow comes from every register in every room. Check that the air filter is clean and properly seated. Ask where the secondary condensate drain terminates — it should drain to a visible location so you know when the primary drain is clogged.

Plumbing. Run every faucet, flush every toilet, and test both hot and cold functions at each fixture. Check under every sink for connections that drip. Look at the water heater for the Temperature and Pressure Relief (TPR) valve — it must have a discharge pipe that terminates within six inches of the floor or runs to the exterior. Ask whether the water heater is properly strapped to the wall if you are in a seismic zone.

Electrical. Plug a phone charger or small lamp into every outlet in every room to confirm it is live. Test every light switch. Check that bathroom and kitchen GFCIs trip when tested and reset properly. Verify that the smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors are installed and functional. Open the electrical panel and confirm that every breaker is labeled accurately.

Water pressure and drainage. Run multiple fixtures simultaneously to check that water pressure holds. Flush toilets while faucets are running. Run water in all showers and tubs and confirm that drains clear without pooling.

Interior: Room by Room

Floors. Walk every square foot of hard flooring and listen for squeaks or hollow-sounding spots that indicate adhesive failure. Check that transition strips between flooring types are properly installed. Look at grout lines in tile — they should be uniform and fully filled without voids.

Walls and ceilings. Stand in the center of each room and scan walls in raking light (flashlight held at an angle to the surface works well). Builder finishes often hide texture inconsistencies and drywall joint humps that become obvious under certain lighting. Check that wall paint coverage is complete — no holidays (missed spots) or lap marks.

Doors and windows. Open and close every interior and exterior door. Latches should engage without forcing. Doors should not drag on carpet. Check that every window opens, tilts for cleaning if double-hung, and latches securely. Look at window seals — double-pane units with fogging between the glass have failed their insulated seal.

Cabinetry. Open and close every cabinet door and drawer. Check alignment — doors should be even at their tops, gaps should be uniform. Pull drawer slides all the way out and check that they re-engage smoothly. Run your hand along countertops to check for chips at sink cutouts.

Staircase. Walk the stair treads and check for squeaks. Verify that balusters are not loose and that the handrail is solidly mounted at both ends.

The Attic and Crawl Space

If you can safely access the attic, go up and look for:

• Insulation coverage — batts should be full-depth and cover the ceiling joists without gaps
• Blocking at eave vents — confirm that insulation baffles are in place so soffit vents are not blocked
• Visible daylight through the roof deck, which indicates a penetration that was not sealed
• HVAC ductwork — all joints should be sealed with mastic or approved metal tape, not standard duct tape, which degrades in heat

For homes with a crawl space foundation, verify that a vapor barrier covers 100% of the exposed soil floor and that the barrier is sealed at the perimeter walls.

Document Everything in Writing Before You Leave

At the end of the walkthrough, do not leave until you have a signed copy of the punch list with every item you marked. Get every item confirmed in writing, with a committed completion date, before you sign the walkthrough acknowledgment. "Builder will address" is not acceptable — you need specifics.

If items are not resolved by closing, you have two options: delay closing until they are, or establish an escrow holdback (a portion of the purchase price held until the builder completes the work). Most builders resist holdbacks; your contract language will determine your leverage.

The Home Inspection Checklist & Red Flag Guide includes a new construction inspection section alongside its standard resale checklist — covering what to observe, what questions to ask the builder, and how to document defects so they hold up in a warranty claim.

After the Walkthrough: The 11-Month Follow-Up

Most new construction comes with a one-year builder warranty on workmanship. Schedule a second independent inspection at the 11-month mark — just before the warranty expires. Inspectors who specialize in builder warranty inspections commonly find HVAC installation deficiencies, framing issues in the attic, and drainage problems that became visible only after the first year of settlement. At 11 months, you still have time to make warranty claims. At month 13, you do not.