Wind Mitigation Inspection Florida: What's Checked and How Much You Can Save

Florida insurance premiums are high. The wind mitigation inspection is one of the most direct ways to reduce them.

Unlike the 4-point inspection — which determines whether your home is insurable — the wind mitigation inspection determines how much of a discount you receive on the wind portion of your homeowners premium. In a state where wind damage is the primary claims driver, that discount can be substantial.

What Is a Wind Mitigation Inspection?

A wind mitigation inspection is a formal evaluation of your home's structural resistance to hurricane-force winds. The results are documented on Florida's standardized Uniform Mitigation Verification Inspection Form (Form OIR-B1-1802), which underwent a major revision effective April 1, 2026.

Under Florida Statutes § 627.0629, all residential property insurers are legally required to offer premium credits for homes with documented wind mitigation features. The inspection verifies those features, and your insurer is required to apply the corresponding discounts.

Inspections must be conducted by a licensed contractor, home inspector, architect, or engineer. The report is valid for 5 years, and you take it with you if you switch carriers.

The Seven Features That Determine Your Discount

The OIR-B1-1802 form evaluates seven structural categories, each with its own credit structure:

1. Building Code Compliance Year

Homes built under the post-March 1, 2002, statewide Florida Building Code (FBC) receive baseline wind mitigation credits — the code significantly strengthened construction standards. Homes built under the post-2007 FBC revisions receive enhanced credits. If your home predates 2002, this category will show minimal or no credit.

2. Roof Covering Material

The inspector verifies that the roof covering (shingles, tile, metal) is approved under the current Florida Building Code. FBC-approved materials earn a credit; older non-approved materials do not.

3. Roof Deck Attachment

This evaluates how the plywood or OSB roof deck is fastened to the trusses. Better fastening means more wind resistance. The grading system:

• Level A (lowest credit): 6d nails at 6"/12" spacing
• Level B (moderate credit): 8d nails at 6"/12" spacing
• Level C (good credit): 8d nails at 6"/6" spacing
• Level D (best credit): Ring-shank nails or screws

To determine nailing pattern, the inspector typically lifts a section of the attic insulation and examines the underside of the deck. This is one of the reasons an attic access is important — homes without accessible attic space may default to the minimum credit category.

4. Roof-to-Wall Connection

This category examines the metal hardware that connects roof trusses to the top plates of the walls. It's the connection that determines whether wind can peel the roof off the structure:

• Toenails (nails driven at an angle, no metal connector): Earns zero credit
• Clips (metal connector on one side of the truss): Earns a partial credit
• Single wraps (metal strap wrapping over the top of the truss): Earns a moderate credit
• Double wraps (straps securing both sides of the truss connection): Earns the highest credit

Double-wrapped connections are primarily found in homes built after 2002. Older homes typically have toenail connections, which generate no credit in this category.

5. Roof Geometry (Shape)

Roof shape significantly affects wind resistance. The two relevant categories:

• Hip roof: All sides of the roof slope downward toward the walls, with no vertical gable ends. Hip roofs perform well in wind because there are no flat surfaces for wind to act against. To qualify for the full discount (typically 28%–32% off the wind premium), a hip roof must comprise at least 90% of the total roof perimeter.
• Non-hip (gable or flat): Vertical gable ends act as wind sails, increasing structural vulnerability. These roofs earn lower or no credit in this category.

If a home has a predominantly hip roof with one small gable addition, it may still qualify if the hip portion exceeds 90%. The inspector measures the perimeter and calculates the percentage.

6. Secondary Water Resistance (SWR)

Secondary water resistance is a peel-and-stick, self-adhering underlayment applied directly to the roof deck before the final roofing material is installed. It provides a backup water barrier if the primary shingles or tiles are blown off during a storm.

A verified SWR installation earns approximately a 5%–10% discount on the wind premium. Many post-2007 homes have SWR as a code requirement; older roofs typically do not, unless they were recently replaced and the contractor installed it during re-roofing.

7. Opening Protection

This category evaluates whether all glazed openings — windows, exterior doors, skylights, sliding glass doors, and garage doors — are protected by either impact-rated glass or code-approved shutters (accordion, panel, or roll-down).

Opening protection is the single most valuable category on the form, worth 30%–45% of the wind premium. The potential savings are enormous — but so is the requirement.

A strict all-or-nothing rule applies: if even one opening is unprotected, you receive zero credit for the entire category. One small bathroom window with non-impact glass. One garage door without an impact rating. One skylight without a shutter. Any single unprotected opening disqualifies the entire credit.

This is why some homeowners spend $5,000–$10,000 to replace a handful of remaining non-impact windows — the insurance savings over 5 years often exceed the cost of the upgrade.

How Much Can You Save?

Combining maximum credits across all seven categories can reduce the wind portion of your homeowners premium by up to 88%. The wind portion of a Florida policy in a coastal county might represent 60%–75% of the total premium. On a $6,000 annual policy where 65% is wind-related, maximizing wind mitigation could reduce that component by $3,400+ per year.

Real-world savings are more modest for most buyers because few older homes qualify for maximum credits in every category. But even partial credits — a hip roof geometry here, 8d nails there — add up. Many buyers see $500–$1,500 per year in savings from a wind mitigation inspection on a modestly well-built home.

What the Inspection Costs and How to Use the Report

A wind mitigation inspection typically costs $75–$150. Most inspection companies offer it bundled with the 4-point inspection for $50–$100 additional. Given the potential premium savings, this is one of the highest-return expenditures you'll make during the home-buying process.

Once you receive the completed OIR-B1-1802 form, submit it directly to your insurance carrier or broker. Your insurer is required by law to apply the discounts. If you change carriers, the same report is valid for up to 5 years — bring it to your new carrier.

If the home's wind mitigation report shows minimal credits (toenail connections, non-hip roof, no opening protection), it doesn't mean you can't buy the property. It means your insurance will cost more, which affects your monthly payment calculation. Price that reality in before making the offer.

For a complete walkthrough of how to sequence the 4-point and wind mitigation inspections within the Florida purchase timeline, see the Florida First-Time Home Buyer Guide — it maps each inspection to the correct window in the FR/Bar AS-IS contract so you don't lose leverage by ordering them too late.

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